Three trends — going zero waste, smart adaptogens and vegan products — are shaping the beauty category across channels, and retailers looking to maintain or grow their share of sales in this vital category need to pay more attention to them.
The 17th annual installment of Cosmoprof North America, held in late July at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, gave more than 40,000 attendees and 1,400 exhibitors from 43 countries a taste of just how important these trends are to the current beauty marketplace, and how professionals are viewing future prospects.
“Beauty with a conscience is a key driver for innovation today,” said Lan Vu, co-founder and CEO of the Paris-based trend forecasting agency Beautystreams. “From zero-waste practices to ethical ingredients to sourcing and clean formulations, brands know that consumers are seeking to live ever more mindfully, while still delighting in the user experience. If eco-living is the price of entry for brands today, holistic innovations across multiple touchpoints will be the key differentiators.”
Marcia Gaynor, a beauty retail executive strategist and former Walgreens beauty executive, said natural ingredients and ingredient transparency were hot topics on the floor, especially in regard to skin and body care, as well as some color lines. All channels are getting into this segment in response to consumer demand, she said. “It’s going to be a matter of their efficacy and whether they perform to the consumer’s expectations as to whether they will succeed.”
Naturally, several of the trends identified by Beautystreams were seen in items presented by exhibitors at this year’s Cosmoprof. The following is a roundup of some of the most interesting products on the show floor that reflected the latest trends, as well as some brands that were just pure fun.
Anyone doubting whether color cosmetics will survive the category’s recent stagnation need not look any further than Crayola Beauty. One of the chicest collections to debut at Cosmoprof, Crayola Beauty, created by Crea Cosmetics, also has heart: all formulas are vegan, made in Italy, and utilize the brand’s iconic yellow and green boxes.
The line’s project manager, Michelle Pinedo, said the collection aims to deliver an elevated beauty experience. “We are working with luxe manufacturers who make premium brands. And, all products have been made to be used and applied with your fingers,” Pinedo said. Roughly 60 color items, not including foundation, with the hero item being its Face Crayon, can be used on eyes, lips and cheeks. Crayola Beauty is priced from $15 to $40 for highlighters, mascaras and palettes.
The Lip Bar
Launched in 2012, it is easy to say that The Lip Bar was way ahead of the vegan-formula craze. “We are the first to have inclusive, vegan and cruelty-free lip products,” said Lip Bar founder Melissa Butler. “Beauty once looked like a linear landscape. Now, inclusive is what all beauty brands are trying to be.”
The Lip Bar is inclusive by offering shades that work with a variety of skin tones, and marketing them with imagery that reflects a diverse consumer base. “We have shades for everyone from Anne Hathaway to Lupita Nyong’o,” she said. The Lip Bar makes everything from lip glosses, lipsticks and lip lines. Prices average around $13. The brand received an investment in 2018 from beauty industry veteran Richelieu Dennis, co-founder and CEO of Sundial Brands.
In February, June Faraham launched Golden Elixir, a phytoactive face oil for the face and neck, utilizing pure plant extracts and actives to repair, hydrate and regenerate skin. Ingredients include vitamin C, CoQ10 and Collageneer, a trademarked blend that includes turmeric and pepper, a combination Faraham said is reliant on one another to be effective.
In addition to the face oil, Golden Elixir includes three superfood adoptegenic blend powders — cacao, mushroom and golden — each of which addresses a different need. Mushroom aims to release anxiety, cacao looks to add a boost of energy and golden fights inflammation. Each requires one teaspoon of powder to be added to 8-oz. of warm nut milk or water.
The oil sells for $88 and the powders range from $44 to $48. Farahan saw an opportunity to create an oil that would “not only deliver precious ingredients to nurture skin, but fill a gap in the luxury market for such a product.”
Just for Fun
While makeup sponges are all the rage, one recurring question is how one properly stores them in a vanity and cosmetic bag. Enter Blenderelle, The Original Makeup Blender Case, founded by Sam Palmer in 2015, which is an antimicrobial, ventilated makeup sponge case. “I was using a makeup sponge, and there was no good place to store it. I filed a patent to protect the idea and launched a ventilated swirl closure case,” said Palmer, who now has three patents on her product.
The case is formulated with silver, which acts as a natural antimicrobial that lasts the lifetime of the product, and is designed with effective ventilation so the sponge can “dry on the fly” after rinsing. Available in pink, black and gold, Blenderelle retails for $12. And this year, Palmer launched an updated version of the case, which now snaps to close, that retails for $12.