Uncharted territory: Beauty navigates a new way forward amid challenges
Will consumers turn to mass retailers for their beauty needs in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic?
While few industry observers want to talk about it, there seems to be a growing consensus that shoppers will look to mass outlets for their products for two very important reasons: price and accessibility.
Before the pandemic hit in March, the mass-market beauty category finally was showing a flicker or two of life after three years of difficult growth as more consumers turned to premier brands sold mainly through department stores. Now those department stores are closed and consumers who still want to look good — even if they are stuck at home — are taking advantage of their trips to the drug store and food store to purchase cosmetics and other beauty supplies.
No one really knows when the pandemic will end and what consumer shopping habits will be like when it does. Still, mass retailers are creating the perception with shoppers that they are here during the crisis, with good selection and price points, and will be here after it ends too.
When the smoke clears, there are many theories swirling around the future of the beauty industry in chain stores. No matter what, efforts to elevate departments have been put on hold to offset costs associated with increasing benefits and pay to employees during the epidemic.
Some think the economic crunch will drive shoppers back to the value pricing of mass stores. Retailers will be ready, stocked with the latest makeup and skin care. Others wonder if Americans — forced to work at home — might reduce beauty regimens. Liz Kaplow, founder of Kaplow Communications, doesn’t believe people will ever give up on the power of a made-up look. “Even while working at home, people got up, worked out and put on full makeup because it gave them confidence for their Zoom meetings,” she said.
Ulta Beauty’s Mary Dillon supported that philosophy in an interview with CNBC on March 25. “Many of us are on video conferences all the time,” she said. “We still want to look good in that environment.” She also gave a shout out to Ulta Beauty’s digital tool, called Glam Lab, which allows for virtual try on. Dillon also said upticks in online sales of necessities like shampoo, but also self-care, have occurred, especially with skin care and facial masks, while its stores have been closed.
Will shoppers who ran to the local CVS Pharmacy for a thermometer make a mental note of the bevy of new items stocked in beauty when they are ready for a new blush? After dashing out for a new skin care product they couldn’t buy at Sephora, will consumers stock with the No7 they purchased at Walgreens? Can Ulta Beauty’s online tools build up pent-up demand when stores open with their well-trained beauty experts at the ready? “A lot of times, people think it’s great that e-commerce is up and running, which is great, but 80% to 85% of retail sales still happen in brick-and-mortar stores,” Dillon told CNBC. “We feel that going back to normal and enjoying things you enjoyed will be high on the list of priorities.”
Certain categories will undoubtedly see renewed consumer interest, such as at-home hair coloring; nail color, as people could be slow to return to nail salons; at-home devices to duplicate spa services; and skin care, as people rethink procedures. Augmented reality apps to virtually try on beauty are expected to gain traction as testers could be a thing of the past in beauty doors. The industry waits for how it will all shake out.
In the comments below, industry executives discuss actions they took in the wake of COVID-19, such as free educational programming, and what they see happening in the months to come.
The NPD Group
While there is uncertainty in brick-and-mortar, online platforms are poised to offset physical retail. Online captures less than one-quarter of total prestige beauty sales, but it’s a mighty force in the market; in fact, it was online growth that buoyed the overall prestige beauty industry in 2019. Into 2020, online sales continue to grow faster than in-store sales. Given the current store closures, can we expect to see more sales shift online in the weeks ahead? The beauty industry knows disruption. Yet in these uncharted waters, how do we navigate our next move and what can we do to ensure the health and safety of our consumers? We are an industry that comes together and supports the bigger purpose. LVMH is a shining example of this as they recently announced a plan to transform their perfume factories to create free hand sanitizer for European hospitals in desperate need.
This is our new normal, for the time being. The uncertainty ahead of us is unequalled, and its impact remains a question. But in the words of Maya Angelou, “Every storm runs out of rain.” When it does, we will return to life as we knew it and go back to focusing on finding the perfect lipstick shade for a well-deserved night out.