Mass Appeal: How marketers are winning the skin care game

1. Experts on Hand: The presence of pharmacists and/or trained beauty consultants is part of the appeal of mass marketers. Retailers are taking that knowledge to the next level. Walgreens is freeing up pharmacists so they can interact with customers who have skin care concerns. They work in conjunction with the retailer’s more than 3,000 beauty experts who are trained to recommend skin care regimens, according to Heather Hughes, Walgreens group vice president, GMM of beauty, personal care and seasonal. 

Rite Aid develops educational information about new skin care products which is shared with its pharmacists, according to Summer Kerley, Rite Aid’s vice president, clinical and market access solutions. There is a barrage of new skin care items hitting the market, Kerley said, and the education helps everyone in the store know what’s new and where to find it. There are greater opportunities to leverage the symbiotic relationships between pharmacists, derms and beauty experts. 

Studies show close to 70% of Americans indicate they have some skin issue, yet only 38% seek the help of derms or other professionals. Derms also face restrictions from insurers who won’t always pay for topical solutions, so they recommend retail options. This leaves a gap that pharmacists and beauty advisors can fill. While social media has spurred sales with hacks and tips, there is also a great deal of misinformation. Derms and other experts are joining in and bringing well-informed posts and often directing shoppers to stores with professionals who can help them find the right product. 

2. Derm Brands are Proliferating: The facial skin care brands with the greatest consumer reach are mostly dermatologist recommended, according to Laura Toscani, consultant analytics and insights at IRI. The researcher’s data revealed that consumers buying derm-focused brands spend 14% more than average skin care shoppers. More than 50% of those queried said lines backed by derms are important in making a purchasing decision. Demand encourages more derm brands to expand to mass doors. 

CVS is currently experimenting with Skin Care Centers filled with derm-recommended brands such as CeraVe, LaRoche-Posay and Vichy, along with emerging lines such as Volition, Wander Beauty, Blume and, recently, Proactiv. “We made the move to introduce Skin Care Centers, complete with on-site skin diagnostic tools, guidance from CVS Beauty Consultants and licensed estheticians and products that until that point had only been found in prestige beauty retail,” said Andrea Harrison, CVS’ vice president of beauty and personal care. “This, combined with some of the most well-loved, clinically proven skin care brands we already offered, created an enhanced new assortment.” 

Derm heritage is certainly a secret weapon for CeraVe. 

“We firmly believe the reason we have experienced long-term success as a brand is because of the dermatologist-developed formulas intentionally curated with our namesake ingredient, ceramides. Our formulas curated with three skin-identical ceramide ensures that all CeraVe products work to simultaneously restore and repair the skin barrier while also providing their individual benefits, so that consumers have a diverse range of effective, affordable products to choose from to curate their skin care routine,” Gill said. “Word of mouth has continued to be a key factor in the success of our brand, which includes dermatologists recommending our products to their patients, leading to new users and lasting brand loyalists.”

[Read more: How nurturing relationships with skin care professionals builds retail sales and credibility]

1. Technology Democratizes the Skin Care Shopping Experience: Despite the increase in trained staff on the floor, the mass market is still primarily self-service — a challenge for a SKU-intensive category like skin care. Technology is helping sort through the confusion. CVS’ Skin Care Centers offer on-site skin diagnostic tools to help consumers identify customized skin solutions. The centers offer two L’Oréal-owned tools: LED technology from SkinScope and ModiFace’s Derm Skin analyzer. Consultants from L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics Division are employed by the centers to operate the SkinScope LED technology to help consumers find the right products from L’Oréal’s brand portfolio, including CeraVe, La Roche-Posay and Vichy. A ModiFace Derm Skin analyzer is an AI-based technology developed by dermatologists to precisely assess skin and any potential changes through live video. 
2. The Wellness Factor: Skin care is considered part of overall wellness routines. Pharmacies have a leg up when it comes to selling ingestibles, which are gaining notice for improving beauty from the inside out. “Supplements work well since mass marketers are getting into the business and there is synergy with pharmacies,” explained Yamit Sadok, vice president of marketing, Twinlab Consolidation Corporation, which offers a range of items to benefit skin, hair and nails, including its Reserveage brand. The intersection of beauty and wellness is top of mind at Ulta Beauty. 

“In the last year we rolled out The Wellness Shop in 800 of our doors,” said Ulta Beauty’s vice president of skin care, sun care, fragrances and bath Penny Coy. “There are wellness products throughout the store, but this curated area showcases products that range from facial products to ingestibles/supplements to taking the spa routine at home beyond the pandemic. In the last month we rolled out intimate wellness taking products such as devices and lubricants and making them accessible to guests.” 

3. Mass Wins the Space Race: Skin care is becoming segmented with specific products for acne, eczema, etc. Mass merchants, according to Juan Morillo, marketing director for Xtreme Beauty/Okay Pure Naturals, have space to offer items to match all needs. “Mass merchandisers and drug stores are winning because they house so many different products. Department stores are limited in their selections and lack product diversity. Drug store brands have stepped their game up and include the same or the equivalent ingredients to high-end department store brands,” he said, adding that consumers are more informed than ever on ingredients and their benefits and expect to see a full array of choices.

[Read more: L’Oréal educates consumers on product environmental impact with labeling system]

On the Cusp of New Trends: The mass market has launched, rather than followed, several skin care breakthroughs such as patches. Hero Cosmetics’ Mighty Patch (which was just acquired by Church & Dwight), for example, bowed at Target. Chains such as Target and Walmart provide launch pads for nascent brands. Clean and sustainable brands also appeared on drug and discount shelves ahead of many department stores, propelled by lines such as Pacifica, Pura D’or and Burt’s Bees. Big box retailers were out of the gate fast on K-beauty. New in the space is Heal Me CICA, a range of five products under the JOAH banner. The CICA ingredient (known as ‘tiger grass’ because tigers in Asia would roll around in the plant to help heal their wounds), is used in skin care for healing and soothing properties, according to Hae Jin, JOAH’s brand director. The five items include a blurring and cooling primer, a foam cleanser, toner pads, spot patches and a cooling gel mist.