Tweens, dupes dominate
It is mass beauty’s time to shine. For the past three years, prestige sales gains eclipsed mass increases—although both channels produced glowy results.
Now, mass is regaining dominance, encouraged by younger customers snapping up skincare products, the upswing in social content creators touting dupes and a slew of innovations. An unsteady economy also signals a pivot to mass brands for some shoppers.
Skincare remains one of the strongest performers with sales rising 13.1% year-over-year, according to NielsenIQ. Younger shoppers drive a significant portion of those gains. In 2023, 46% of growth in the facial skincare category was produced by households with tweens or teens, according to NIQ.
With the Gen Alphas population expected to reach 2.5 billion the year, the cohort presents significant opportunities for retailers. The challenge for drugstores will be to court sales away from prestige doors.
The “Sephora kids” effect has a huge impact on skincare sales. The term refers to younger shoppers flocking to the aisles at Sephora and Ulta Beauty for high-end brands like Drunk Elephant. There is a spillover into the mass market for skincare—especially as parents sway their offspring to lower price points.
Dermatologists are weighing in on the kids’ skincare craze. “This trend where tweens are buying and using ‘advanced skincare’ is very concerning,” said Dr. Heather Woolery-Lloyd. “Skincare products with ingredients like retinol and alpha hydroxy acids are not appropriate for young skin and can cause significant irritation in this age group.”
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“If a child shows interest in skin care, it’s an opportunity for parents to engage in a conversation about basic skincare,” Wooley-Lloyd continued. “Most tweens only require a gentle cleanser, a light moisturizer and sunscreen. It’s crucial for children to understand that healthy skin care for their age does not involve anti-aging products.”
A poll of derms list CeraVe, Bubble, Cetaphil and TBH as mass brands with products suitable for younger shoppers. “We don’t formulate with any ingredients considered controversial,” said Shai Eisenman, founder and chief executive officer of the fast-growing Bubble brand. “We choose ingredients that are the absolute safest. We simplified the routine—there are only three steps—cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. We developed it like a prestige brand sold at mass prices.”
The brand has other items it does not advise for younger users, such as acne treatments, which Eisenman does not recommend for people under 14. “We say it bluntly on our TikTok and Instagram,” Eisenman added.
Retailers and brands see a chance to teach consumers about good skin health. Bubble, for example, produced a video for CVS associates and provided educational documents for Walmart.
Retailers singled out CeraVe as a brand younger shoppers request—and parents approve. “We are excited to see that younger generations are interested in skincare and prioritize their skin health. This is a big opportunity for brands to educate parents and younger consumers about safe skincare and how to practice dermatologist-recommended habits,” said Jasteena Gill, vice president of marketing at CeraVe. “As a brand developed with dermatologists, CeraVe always encourages consulting a dermatologist when making skincare decisions to better understand what products are most suitable for skin, especially for parents of children interested in skincare.
CeraVe supplements dermatologist recommendations with more accessible skincare education for all ages to encourage healthy habits.”
TBH is a brand developed for young skin. Its Kids’ Face Moisturizer, launched late in 2023, has already become the company’s fastest seller to date, according to brand founder and CEO Risa Barash.
The moisturizer is formulated for younger skin to keep it hydrated while maintaining the natural protective barrier. It contains age-appropriate levels of vitamin C, peptides and hyaluronic acid to maintain fresh glowing faces while still being gentle, said Barash, who added that TBH sales are up 40% and on the rise.
“We also have taken consumer feedback—specifically from tweens themselves—and we are currently redesigning our packaging to align with their purchasing behaviors,” Barash said. “We expect to roll this out over the second half of 2024 which we also expect to see increases.”
TBH Kids has been vocal about the “Sephora kids” and how they are using the wrong products with harsh ingredients they don’t need.
“Our products are age-appropriate for tweens 9-15,” Barash told DSN. “While mass marketers can certainly use this as a teachable moment by stocking age-appropriate products, promoting brands to the correct demographics with appropriate messaging, and utilizing in-store education, it is equally important for parents to educate themselves and their kids about products and ingredients.”
“As a brand, we aim to help educate parents and tweens through our social media, website blog, and other channels as well,” Barash added. “TBH Kids volume is up over 40% and we expect the numbers to continue to grow.”
Vera Oh, co-founder of VOESH, said her brand is geared toward those 13 and up. “Considering the increasing awareness of environmental factors affecting younger skin, it’s not uncommon for even younger kids to face skincare concerns.
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Parents play a crucial role as the skincare detectives, discerning between what to avoid and what’s beneficial,” she said. Opting for cleaner ingredients is crucial. “While we want kids to have fun with skincare, parents should also be savvy about what goes into those products, ensuring they’re safe and effective,” Oh added.
Mass Market Alternatives Sprout
There is little shame in buying good-value beauty products thanks to affirmation from social media content providers. In fact, dupes are in and that’s a windfall for mass retailers. NIQ reports that 46% of consumers state they will purchase less expensive products to save money.
The dupes, said Anna Mayo, NIQ’s vice president for beauty vertical, grow the entire category rather than shift sales. “Sales of originals benefit at the same time as copycats.”
E.l.f., L.A. Girl and Milani are brands gaining fans in makeup. Garnier and L’Oréal are seen as “just as good” as salon haircare. Walmart’s exclusive Dossier is a substitute for Baccarat Rouge 540, which starts at $200 versus Dossier’s version at $49.
Milani is a social media darling. Its new Cheek Kiss Cream Bronzer is “off to an amazing start,” said Jeremy Lowenstein, chief marketing officer for the brand. He said influencers compare it to pricier brands like Makeup by Mario and Patrick Ta.
Influencer Kelly Strack recently posted affordable finds at Walmart and frequently shows off drugstore versions of prestige products, such as Physicians Formula’s Butter Glow Bronzing Serum ($14) versus Drunk Elephant’s D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops ($38).
A Pipeline of New
Brands uncorked a bevy of new items to take advantage of interest in mass-market beauty. Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson became the latest celebrity to muscle into the market with his personal care brand, Papatui, which rolled out to 1,900 Target stores.
Sports stars are scoring in beauty, and Serena Williams hopes to serve the needs of people with darker skin with her brand, Wyn, which launched in Ulta Beauty.
CeraVe is expanding its facial moisturizer portfolio. “We continue to innovate our products to offer consumers more options to customize their skin care routines to what works best for their skin, all while keeping our formulas rooted in our expertise—restoration of the skin barrier with three essential ceramides,” said Gill “We are growing our facial moisturizer lineup to give consumers even more options to incorporate daily moisturization into a healthy skincare routine.”
Onyx Professional is gearing up for the second half of the year. “I’m so excited about the new Onyx Professional bath and body care collection,” said Sarah Conley, Onyx’s social media strategist. “Personally, I love the Hydrating & Foaming Body Wash Shake in Rose Petals—not only does it contain niacinamide, an ingredient that does wonders for my skin, but it’s a multipurpose product— you can also use it to shave.”
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Raw Sugar, sold in Target, CVS and Walmart, is going deeper in haircare and body care. The Deep Cleanse Clarifying Shampoo, New Not So Dry Shampoo, Rosemary Vinegar Hair Rinse and Simply Straight are new in its arsenal. The company added new scents in its lotions Santal+Caffeine, Shea + Rice Flower, Hibiscus + Island Fruit and Clementine+Fig, an Eco Body Bar and a Daily Micro Scrub Polish.
VOESH, which recently expanded into Walmart, is introducing a Vegan Body Crème Trio, Tone’d Body Firming Roller Crème and Smooth’d Body Refining Roller Crème.
First, there was the “skinification” of hair and now first aid. Kenvue is introducing Band-Aid Brand Pro Heal Adhesive Bandages with Hydrocolloid Gel Pads for advanced healing. The hydrocolloid gel pads not only aid in faster healing but also play a crucial role in preventing the appearance of scars, the company said. By balancing hydration, damaged skin is nurtured back to health.
Bright Future
With solid tailwinds, mass market industry leaders are bullish on the future. “I’m no economist, but I do know that whether the economy is up or down, self-care is a necessity and should be accessible,” said Conley at Onyx. “Taking the time to pour back into yourself is essential, especially when times are tough.”
Oh at Voesh said the second half will have challenges, but she is still optimistic. “We’re witnessing signs of economic recovery, particularly in our traditional sales channels, which is encouraging. However, we remain wary of supply chain disruptions and inflationary pressures,” she said. “Sustainability and social responsibility continue to influence consumer behavior and corporate strategies. Businesses are increasingly prioritizing environmental stewardship and ethical practices. Moving forward, we’re committed to remaining adaptable to effectively navigate this evolving landscape.”
